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A lot can be learned about your
Rotax engine condition as well as what it
sees by properly reading and
"understanding" your spark plugs.
This page will show you
pictures as well as explanations on cause and
effect of what you see when
viewing your spark plugs. Look at the spark plug
porcelin for the color
and condition of it. Plug colors can tell you how the
engine is running
and can be very important. Plugs change colors and the
different colors
can explain such things as if the engine is running too hot or
if the
engine is worn. The color should be read by looking at the porcelin
insulator and compared to the plugs shown on the next few pictures.

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A
tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the
air/fuel mixture is correct. This is the correct color a spark
plug should be and it tells you everything is fine with the
engine. You would install a new properly gapped plug. When
installing a new plug, replace the old one with the same heat
range. This plug shows normal wear in the center electrode. A new
plug would have square edges that helps the plug fire better. |
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This
plug is worn out from being used for a long period of time. Notice
how the center electrode is round and worn from use. A spark plug
that is worn takes a lot more voltage to fire and can cause poor
engine running. |
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This
plug shows what can happen when something hits the spark plug.
Something from inside the engine has hit the plug and this problem
must be repaired before running the engine further. Make sure the
spark plug is the correct length for the engine. |
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Excessive
detonation has caused the porcelin on this plug to break away. If
this engine is allowed to run, engine damage can occur. Make sure
the fuel octane is high enough for the engines requirements. |
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A white colored
plug is caused by engine overheating. Failure to repair this
engine will result in severe engine damage. Common causes for this
are:
Incorrect spark plug (too
hot heat range).
Low octane fuel.
Timing is not set
properly.
Cooling problems, (dirty
cylinder fins, no or low water if water cooled, low or no
engine oil).
Carburetor air/fuel
mixture is too lean (too much air).
Leaking crankshaft seals,
no oil, base or head gasket leaks, or crankcase leaks on two
stroke engines.
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This plug has ash
deposits which are light brownish deposits that are encrusted to
the ground and/or center electrode. This situation is caused by
the type of oil used and adding a fuel additive. This condition
will cause a misfire. This can be also caused by changing oils in
midstream. |
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This plug is oiled
fouled, caused by poor oil control. |
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Pre-ignition,
which will usually look as a melted center electrode and/or ground
electrode. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced
timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit
accumulation inside the combustion chamber. |
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Sustained
Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted or missing
center electrode and/or ground electrode as well as a destroyed
insulator. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced
timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit
accumulation inside the combustion chamber. |
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Splashed deposits
look as if they are small islands of contaminants on the
insulator. This is usually caused by dirty carburetor bores or air
intake. |
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A black dry fluffy
colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor that is
running too rich (too much gas), or excessive idling on some
engines. Black smoke coming from the exhaust is a sign of a rich
air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture must be repaired
before installing a new spark plug. Common causes for a rich
air/fuel mixture are:
dirty air filter.
air mixture screw or
carburetor needs adjusting.
choke is sticking.
carburetor float height is
out of adjustment or float is sticking open.
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